Surf Break: Follow Your Heart

A promising career in the early 20’s, and without warning someone with zero surfing experience buys a board, books a surf trip and changes the trajectory of their life. Awesome.

Maybe this is the story of a lot of surf bums. Still awesome.

In this version, of what could be a classic surf bum tale, the surf rat shakes off the materialist shackles to hit the waves and share the surf experience through a 16 mm camera. And the five minutes that are currently available seem well worth the “sacrifices” made.

As if opening yourself to perfect waves, new cultures, and corners of the globe that can only be described as paradise is a sacrifice.

“I’ve surfed perfect waves.  I’ve sailed from Hawaii to Kiribati.  I’ve listened to whales that sound like dinosaurs.  I’ve seen rainbows at night across the open ocean under a full moon.”

Tough sacrifice.

There are a lot of ways to approach life. Find a passion and follow it. Your heart is a better guide than direction from anyone else’s mouth.

Here’s the story of Jeremy Rumas from Inertia.com – “The planet’s largest network of thinking surfers,” by the way.

And here’s a clip of Jeremy’s surf flick, Inside Hangs Upon Nothing

 

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